Tech Tip Archives

Handling the LOLs

We tend to forget we have hands the size of a saucer, and our forearms are, frequently, larger than many people's biceps. I am sure you have your share of LOLs (little old ladies) whose strength is waning and you have to teach them new ways of turning the lock cylinder/key. Possibly AFTER you replaced said lock cylinder, even though you weren't able to duplicate the complaint of "hard to turn the key." It took me a few times to catch on -- if I can't duplicate the problem, let's watch THEM do it; let's see, exactly, what the problem is that they are complaint about.

Well, addition to the hard to turn lock cylinder, add gearshift lock buttons. With all the interlocks being placed into shift levers, it is getting hard to push the lockout buttons for some older folks.

We had a customer, who has already been to a few shops, including ours, to get her "hard to take out of Park" problem resolved. I played with it, looked for TSB dealerships, and for pattern failures, in Identifix, with no resolve. My tech, in desperation, thought we should replace the interlock solenoid (the last dealer had replaced the shift cables). The customer agreed with this (through my service manager), and the parts were ordered. Wrong parts, customer waiting.

My tech put the shifter back together without the interlock solenoid, but with all the other safety features intact so she could still drive it while waiting for the correct parts. The customer still had a hard time taking it out of Park -- but I was in the car, with her this time, and noticed how small her hands were, in relation to mine (or just about any tech for that matter). It finally dawned one -- her problem was, really, her hands weren't big enough, or strong enough to push the button in easily. She has had to adapt how she drives now, but she is happy to know it is not an automobile problem, nor a long line of inept mechanics.

MSL Manual Transmissions

The M50 manual transmissions, such as found in Explorers and Ranges have nylon bushing on the shifter, which will, eventually, disintegrate over time and result in missed shifts and not staying into gear. We have also been seeing Toyota 5 speeds, found in the pickups, sharing the same problem. The customer complaint will be not stay in 4th gear (pops out). It is very easy to diagnose a bad transmission, with this symptom/complaint. Luckily, for us, the first Toyota customer diagnosed his own problem and asked us to order a transmission, beforehand, so it would only be a one-day (Friday, no less) repair. Also, luckily, the local dealership stocked the nylon ring (several, in fact). This was our first clue this may be a common problem.

So, when the next Toyota pickup began popping out of 4th gear, we pulled the shifter, first. Wow! Was the customer happy with us!

Infiniti's Mysterious Starting Problems

We have had three Infinitis recently which were towed in for no start condition. In each case the car was driven with no problem, parked, and would not restart the next morning (usually mornings). It would come in sounding just like a timing belt had jumped, or broken -- except these cars use chains.

On the first one we used extreme caution due to the interference warnings, and pulled the front cam covers off. After a careful check of cam and crank timing marks it was evident the chain had not jumped, or otherwise was the cause of the no start. This was followed by a compression test -- almost zero compression in most cylinders! We had checked for gasoline spraying out the cylinders when we had removed the plugs, and the plugs were not wet at the time of inspection.

To make the long story short -- a series of oil soaking the cylinders and an engine restart. Infiniti #2 was not as strenuously tested, and #3 barely rated a compression test and spark plug testing.

My tech tip? I haven't got one -- yet. We are not seeing any reason for the cylinders to wash. The CTS is normal when we get the car running (and before it starts). The pressure regulator is not malfunctioning. I don't see anything on Identifix's pattern failure -- but we have had three in the last 45 days. If anyone else has seen this, I'd appreciate a call, and if someone else runs into one -- just oil the cylinders and clean the plugs for now. If you have adjusted the valves, and they are still noisy, just check the pedestal bolts. AND don't overlook the dished rocker arm (or follower). Retorque the rocker arm shaft bolts, and (if necessary) pop one of the noisy ones loose and look at the rocker arm.

I made fun of this once before, but it really is a good down and dirty trick. It is NOT foolproof -- and should be used as the definitive for estimates. To get an immediate idea of brake rotor thickness, taken an open end wrench of the discard size. If the wrench slips over the rotor, then you know it is replacement time. You can sometimes get an idea how much material prevents the wrench from going over, to also get an early jump on a repair. But nothing beats the actual micrometer measurement.

Nissan 3.0 Motors

Mid 90's Nissan 3.0 engines may develop a ticking noise in the valve train which sounds like valve lifters. Before declaring bad valve lash, take a jumper wire and ground the solenoid controlling the variable valve timing gear. It is pretty obvious -- sticking up out of the valve cover. You only need access to one -- the easiest one(for a change) because they are in series. grounding the solenoid traps the oil in the gears.

With the engine idling, and the noise present, ground the lead. If the noise goes away, you have found the problem. Nissan has a TSB for this: Replace just the spring. According to my sources, however, it is better to replace the entire gear. The spring doesn't always fix the problem, but replacing the gear assembly will. Do the job once, and the customer pays -- do the job a second time and someone pays (not always the customer -- at least willingly).

More 3.0 Nissan noise problems. If the noise is in the front of the engine, and the customer notices it most often during start up (but will occur during running, also), the problem is the chain tensioner. There is a revised chain tensioner kit that will stop the noise. Make sure the oil passages are clean, especially the drain back.

And, as long as I am on 3.0s, we have been seeing an oil leak from between the block and the front case. This is a hard one to diagnose. It may appear as an oil pan gasket leak, or the oil pressure switch. There is no TSB on this one, but we have had luck smearing silicone on this seam/joint. We clean the area pretty good -- no, darned well, and the force the silicone into the area and let it dry overnight. Always get the customer involved. give him his choices, then go ahead and silicone the area. It is a Band-Aid fix, but when the customer is told the labor price to remove the front cover (behind the timing belt), they always want to try the band-Aid before surgery.

Honda's V-Tech Engines

My son-in-law (a service writer for a Honda agency in Salt Lake City) has told me they have been seeing newer Hondas, with the V-Tech engine, been coming in on the hook for no starts. The wrong weight oil has been put into these engines, usually by DIYers! The wrong weight oil? Yeah -- 10/40 is usually the culprit. Honda recommends 5/30 for these engines. The heavier (?) weight oil keeps the valves open. He also mentions the new, new cars will be using 0/30 oil. "Pours like water," he tells me. This is another wake-up call for us to pay attention to vehicle specifications. It is way too easy to use one grade oil for all of our oil changes -- I know -- we use 10/30 for just about all of our oil changes. I have been beating my lube guy to check MOD for quantities, but now we have to check viscosity ratings as well. Is there any end to this insanity? First it was transmissions, then cooling systems -- now engine specifications. I now stock more different fluids than my parts store!

SCAN Tool Readings

It is easy to make snap, incorrect, judgments about what is wrong with a car based upon the SCAN tool reading. Take the time to look at all the parameters. Just because there is a code for an EGR valve not opening, does not mean the EGR is at fault. I showed one of my techs how a bad thermostat and/or CTS would not allow the EGR control to function. Replacing the CTS corrected the pinging, and erased the EGR code. Take the time to look at ALL the parameters. And don't forget to run the gearshift lever through all its positions. If the PRNDL is not reading correctly, the PCM doesn't make the correcting decisions for timing, EGR control, etc.

Honda Information

Returning to Hondas - a no-charging system may not be the alternator. Honda has been using an ELD (electrical load device) relay for the last 10 years or so. Honda uses PCM strategy to control the voltage regulator. We have learned to let the engine run a few minutes before checking alternator output (the PCM lets the initial start up to stabilize before turning the alternator on, reducing the load on the engine). Honda uses the ELD relay to control alternator output -- no load, no work at idle.

The typical customer complaint will be they are noticing the dash, or headlights, dim with turn signal use or brake application. Check the ELD before condemning an alternator.

And, as a reminder, check the dash warning light -- it needs to be working before the alternator will work. Heck, as long as I am there -- Honda needs a functioning dash light, but it is grounded by the alternator -- so... for a no-charge, check the bulb. If it doesn't light, go out to the alternator and ground the appropriate wire -- if the bulb lights now, proceed with the rest of the charging system check.

In a nutshell, there it is -- a Honda may not charge because of a: bad alternator, bad dash bulb, bad ELD, or a bad PCM (in that order).

Exploring Potential Repairs for Daewoos

Daewoo, an automobile manufacturer, came to the American market with some pretty nice looking cars, with some pretty weird names, has gone the way of American Motors. Nice, orphan cars with little support left in America. They are now starting to reach that mileage which means increased maintenance with little dealer support. You will start seeing then, I am certain, some of them on the hook.

Most of the engines are valve benders. Our first one was a Lanos with the 1.6 DOHC engine. Timing belt went 2,000 miles before the recommended interval of 70K. Let that be a warning to those customers with Daewoos. Bad news is the valve bend -- all of them. Good news is they apparently don't destroy the head, only taking out the guides. Joe Cross from Tucson Cylinder Head walked me through the scenario of using aftermarket valve guides instead of OE guides. However, the parts scene was a mixed bag -- some aftermarket, mostly dealer captive. And, the factory gasket set will be missing some pretty important gaskets. Give yourself time (and an open estimate) to order, and reorder, as you progress in the repair. Our "head set" had a rear main oil seal, crank seal, some unidentified gaskets, and a tube of RTV -- but no valve cover grommets or cam plugs.

First: to change the timing belt, you will need a special tool. No surprise there, I suppose, except there is no substitute available. This engine uses a technique similar to the 1.8 GM by using the water pump as the belt adjuster. Only it's not the same size hex! Okay, let's look at what I already have -- fan clutch wrenches, crowfoot wrenches (Purchased for forgotten jobs), and still so unused as to have shiny chrome), and such. Nothing, Okay, let's look in the tool catalogs -- not even KD lists the tool. Finally, I took a measurement of the pump hex, and made a wrench from flat stock. A few false starts as to creating a handle, and I have a wrench.

Be forewarned, however, the factory wrench has a marking on it to ensure proper belt adjustment. Since I didn't have a clue, I used my belt adjuster gauge.

Take the power steering pump off the engine -- it is in the way for both belt replacement and getting to one of the water pump bolts. The manual will tell you to loosen it and slip the belt behind the pump. Well, you can slip the belt behind the pump, but the pump blocks access to one of the water pump bolts.

Speaking of the water pump bolts: a normal 5mm Allen socket will not reach. So either you use a standard Allen key and a box end wrench, for leverage, or you can get creative and cut an Allen key off and install it into one of those Allen sockets with replaceable tips. I chose the cruder method of a box end wrench on the short leg of the key.

One final warning -- After you get the head back from the machine shop, install a bolt and lock washer into each camshaft. Rotate each cam through two revolutions. Examine each valve for complete seating before installing the head onto the block. I had valve lifters not bleeding down after reinstallation, holding valves open. I turned the cams to open a pair of valves, and left it for about 10 minutes each. This bled the lifters down. I did this several times for each pair of valves until I was satisfied they would fully close during the initial cranking. Also be aware, oil will come out of the head -- so put a towel under the head to catch the drain.

Rust/Corrosion Problems

Living, and working, in sunny, pleasant Arizona insulates us from the rest of the nasty world. Transplants from other parts of the U.S. tend to forget, and those who have only lived their working lives in Arizona, have never learned to look for rust/corrosion induced problems.

A reminder for you old transplants, and a tip to be passed along to your native sons: Watch for corrosion on brake jobs. If you see one brake show worn significantly more than the others, find out why. Grab the parking brake cables at the frame and give them a yank. Do they move outward easily, and do they return fully? Parking brake cables take a beating in the rust belt or salted states. There is often enough leverage from the parking brake pedal, or lever, to apply the parking brake without too much effort, but corrosion may not let that little spring fully release the shoes. The result is a dragging brake shoe.

One of my native boys here had never heard of checking parking brake cables, and it could have been the start of some of that fancy dancing at the service desk. You know the tune; the brakes wore out too quickly. And the second dance when we have to go back in and not only resell the rear brake job, but cables as well. Luckily I had walked by and noticed the severely worn shoes -- so we had the mini class.

Even today, while I regularly replace wheel cylinders as part of a brake job, I still have the tendency to open the brake bleeder screw first, just to see whether it will open before I do any other work. I don't want to go to all that work to find a frozen brake bleeder. This is equally important on front calipers; don't want to do the front brakes and find out the bleeders won't open after the fact.

Speaking of wheel cylinders -- I recommend you replace wheel cylinders rather than rebuilding them. When rebuilding was popular, brakes only lasted about 30,000 miles. The wheel cylinders were opened and flushed regularly. Now, rear brakes last through 3, or 4, front brake relines. That may be (sometimes) 10 years and 70,000+ miles. Think of all that time that brake fluid has been in the brake system, collecting moisture. Personally, I think too much time for rust and corrosion to get a good start in the wheel cylinders. Too much to safely rebuild wheel cylinders. Replacing wheel cylinders, and brake hardware, reduces your warranty and safety issues. Better the customer be grumpy once, than him (and you) be unhappy the second go around.

Batteries Can be Trouble!

We all know the dangers of batteries: the electrolyte spillage, heavy weights, and the potential for explosions. We have had the lectures, we have the posters, and we take care to avoid the obvious dangers. But just a reminder -- even if you aren't doing anything unsafe, a battery can still explode.

We had one in the shop this morning -- doing a routine maintenance tune up, not fooling around with the battery, charging system, or nuthin'. Matter of fact, the car had been sitting overnight, so there was no "out gassing" involved. Our tech was simply bumping the engine to bring the rotor up (for that pesky screw) when it blew. Luckily for him, he was back by the driver's door, reaching into the car for the ignition key. I once had a battery blow up right next to my head. I was doing a compression test on the right side of the engine using a remote starter when the battery blew because of an internal connection problem. The explosion was so loud and the force so great I was knocked down, totally disoriented. My shop mates came to my rescue with water to flush the acid off (my face and body). The potential force in a battery is staggering -- such a little space for the hydrogen gas to accumulate, and it can, literally, blow a hood out of shape.

Of course, the immediate questions were "What caused it?" and "What did I do?" The answer, in this case, was "there was no negligence on your part to have caused the explosion." I suspect there was a problem with the internal connections; a poor solder joint, or a broken cell bond. Possibly the electrolyte level was down far enough to uncover some plates, we will never really know. This was a good, quality, battery -- but it does happen. When the tech asked for electrical demand (cranking), there was an internal arc and the explosion. And it WAS an explosion! If you have been fortunate enough to never have been around a battery explosion, let me tell you; it is loud. And it spreads acid all over the car, all over the shop, all over everything. This could have happened just as easily to the customer after (s)he left and to the grocery store (imagine trying to explain THAT one).

Back in my youthful days, while working in a California service station, we were one of the first gasoline stops after the desert. Cars and trucks would come in for the potty stop, gas refill, and a new battery. Batty gassing from an overactive alternator, coupled with underhood heat soak, and a stray arc or spark from a loose battery cable, a bad solenoid connection, or a weary spark plug wire arcing would raise the hood, and wake the sleep (or dead). I suspect this could still be an occurrence in most of Arizona today.

Just a reminder: Do not take batteries for granted. Arcs and sparks can be hazardous to your health, safety and well being.

Seat Belt Complaints

If you ever have a customer complaint about a seat belt not retracting, or slow/incomplete retracting, it may not be the actual retractor; it may be a dirty belt. Pull some slack into the belt, and test the retractor by snapping the end of the belt where it goes into the retractor. If the retractor snaps the belt back into the housing, then don't pursue spraying lube into the retractor -- it won't do any good and the lube may get onto the belt and/or customer.

Instead, the belt and/or guide may need cleaning. I use laundry detergent -- BIZ, to be exact. Mix up some BIZ into a small bucket and use a clean rag. If I want to impress the customer, I will use inexpensive white towels purchased from the discount stores; either dish towels, or the ones from the "auto" section. The amount of grunge which comes off a seat belt will surprise most people (certainly surprised me the first time I performed a cleaning).

This operation will take at least two towels, more likely three. Soak the "dirty" towel in the solution, then start wiping/scrubbing the belt. Normally it only takes the first couple of feet of belt from where it normally rides on the driver/passenger side. After a thorough washing, start wiping the belt with the "clean" (dry) towel. Repeat this process until most or all of the dirt no longer transfer. I find washing, drying, and letting the belt air dry, then repeating the process seems to have a better effect. Don't forget to wash off the guide as many times as you wash the belt. It will have a build-up of yuck as well. Do not use harsh detergents, bleach, or anything which might attack the nylon (or whatever material they use for seat belts these days). Avoid any cleaner which will stay in the belt. The solution must be rinsed out as best possible, otherwise the soap will attract more dirt. On some vehicles, usually those driven by people whose hands are dirty from work, belt washing will need to be done more often than others.

If you see a customer vehicle where the seat belt is laying in a coiled mess, check out the retractor, then sell them the service.

Chrysler 3.5 Spark Plug Wires

Changing spark plug wires can be quite a chore on a Chrysler 3.5 engine. Most people remove the plenum for access. Based on Chrysler's recommended replacement interval, and actual need to replace those wires to prevent misfires, this can be hard on the customer. Not to mention the probability the tech isn't too jazzed at recommending a replacement set.

You can cut the replacement time to just a few minutes, however. Since you are replacing the wires anyway, take the spark plug boots off the old wires. Using a bit of spray lubricant, remove the boots from the new set. Pull the old wires out (the boots were the reason they wouldn't come past the intake plenum), and snake the new wires in. More lubricant on the boot end and reinstall the spark plug boots. Charge fairly, whatever you think is appropriate, but don't give it away. Charge somewhere in between flat rate and actual time. You fee is still based on what you know.

Looking for the "Real" Problem

There are times we "know" what is causing a certain drivability problem, but we get tunnel vision and sidetracked, forgetting to look at the whole picture. I'm here to tell you I spun my wheels for far too many days looking for the "real" problem, all the while knowing there was a problem in the base function of the car. A couple of years ago I had warned about Taurus alternators causing a stalling condition; too much AC voltage would cause the ECA to turn the injectors off under certain conditions. This is not limited to Taurus' but it was a pattern failure with them.

I had a '86 Taurus 3.0, with the customer complaint of intermittent stalling. Sometimes it would occur frequently during a drive cycle, sometimes it would be days between episodes. I performed all the basic tests, including testing alternator output and voltage drops. My first mistake was thinking the symptoms didn't match what I had written about earlier, therefore it can't be too much AC voltage from the alternator (in which the car had too much AC voltage). Not only was this my first mistake, it became the BIG mistake. I spent time testing everything. EVERYTHING - twice. I checked for TSBs, went on the iATN, and called Identifix. I called gurus from all over. I hate to put parts on a car to "see" if that part fixed it but I had resorted to replacing parts. My problem was I didn't want to replace the alternator until I had fixed whatever was causing the stalling and I didn't want to spend here money until I had the stalling stropped. I was taught no matter what else you found wrong with a car, no matter what else you repaired, fix the customer's original complaint. Putting an alternator (even thought it was bad) would not fix the stalling. HAH! The alternator fixed the stalling.

What finally convinced me I had to replace the alternator was looking at PIP, TPS, and MAP -- there was too much hash in the "ON" voltage. Also, remember to look at the AC signal at the engine, not the battery. Don't forget the basic rule: Make certain the base engine, or base car functions, are correct before diving into the exotic repairs.

Self-Service Gas Pumping Can be Hazardous to Your Health

The Petroleum Equipment Institute is working on a campaign to try and make people aware of fires as a result of "static" (that is, static electricity) at gas pumps. They have research 150 cases of these fires. The results were very surprising:

1. Out of 150 cases, almost all of them were women.

2. Almost all cases involved the person getting in their vehicle while the nozzle was still pumping gas. When finished, and they went back to pull the nozzle out, the fire started, as a result of static.

3. Most had on rubber-soled shoes.

4. Most men never get back in their vehicle until completely finished. This is why they are seldom involved in these types of fires.

5. Don't ever use cell phones when pumping gas.

6. It is the vapors that come out of the gas that cause the fire, when connected with static charges.

7. There were 29 fires where the vehicle was reentered and the nozzle was touched during refueling from a variety of makes and models. Some resulting in extensive damage to the vehicle, to the station, and to the customer.

8. Seventeen fires that occurred before, during or immediately after the gas cap was removed and before fueling began.

NEVER get back into your vehicle while filling it with gas. If you absolutely HAVE to get in your vehicle while the gas is pumping, make sure you get out, close the door TOUCHING THE METAL, before you ever pull the nozzle out. This way the static from your body will be discharged before you ever remove the nozzle.

As mentioned earlier, The Petroleum Institute, along with several other companies now, are really trying to make the public aware of this danger. You can find out more information by going to http://www.pei.org. Once here, click in the center of the screen where it says "Stop Static."

I ask you please send this information to ALL your family and friends, especially those who have kids in the car with them while pumping gas. If this were to happen to them, they may not be able to get the children out in time.

Spare Tire Locked?

We occasionally run into a locked spare tire, but recently ran into a locked spare tire winch! It was on a Ford truck, and it had what appeared to be a McGard style lock inserted into the winch crank. To make a long story shorter, we managed to get the spare tire down and the winch removed from the vehicle. A call to our local Ford dealer revealed the following: They are just like the anti-theft device dealerships install -- there are no parts listed for them. In other words, no key no work.

The customer had purchased the truck used, and didn't have a clue, so we ordered a used winch from a salvage yard. When the used winch arrived, I looked at the lock device and the used winch -- and simply popped the lock out of the socket. It is only held into place with one of those speed lock washers. So, if you have one show up -- the lock can be just popped our (and not with much effort) of the socket where the crank fits in.

I let my Ford guy know (and was he surprised!). A spare tire lock is probably not a bad idea -- but not having a key (or having a frozen lock) does not make the stress of changing a tire any easier.

Where's the Phone Number?

Still find yourself reaching for your little black book for a phone number, especially when looking for an unfamiliar supplier? I found a solution for all that reaching and flipping -- there is a program within Windows for "addresses." True, like any computerized program, it takes setup time, but once entered it saves enormous amounts of time and frustration. Some may already use it, but many others don't know about this neat little section or may not use it to its full capability.

The Address Book in Windows will quickly provide all your normally called vendors phone numbers. If you group all the vendors for a car line, or a specialty use the first name. For example, list all Hyundai dealers together using Hyundai as the first name, and the specific dealer as the middle name. Towing, radiator sales, and the like are similarly listed using the specialty as the first name.

One of the neat things about the program is that it automatically alphabetizes the names and puts them in order. You don't have to worry about making sure if you remember. For example, who all your KIA dealers are -- if you have used KIA for the first name, all the KIA dealers will be together. And all subsequent entries are automatically put in their correct location and order. If you put Ford, GM, or Mazda, etc., as the first name, then all the Ford, GM, and Mazda, etc., dealers will show up grouped together sharing the first name. There is additional good news, and bad news; the good news is each computer station can have its own phone list, tailored to the user or station. The bad news? Each computer station has it own phone list -- it's not shared. That just means you have to go in and enter all joint use phone numbers on each computer station.

From the START button choose PROGRAMS, and from that menu, choose ACCESSORIES. The ACCESSORIES menu will open another drop down menu, which will include ADDRESS BOOK. Open the ADDRESS BOOK, it takes a few seconds to get familiar with it. To add an address and/or phone number, choose NEW and then NEW CONTACT from that drop down menu. This opens the initial screen where you start entering the information.

Decide how you want to enter the phone numbers and addresses. If you like the idea of using group headings, enter that in the first name, and then tab over the middle name and enter the dealer (or vendor) name. Above this screen is another tab menu -- select BUSINESS. If you want minimal information, just select the PHONE box, and enter the phone number you use. You can enter all the information such as address and FAX numbers, etc., as you have time. The more information you enter, the more will be visible when that phone number/name is highlighted. To quickly access phone numbers, keep the address book open by minimizing the window. Now you can open your phone book at any time while working in any other program. There is a "Find" or "Search" button in the START menu, but unless your phone book is really big, you can scroll search just as fast.

Try using the address book -- it really doesn't take long to add, initially, those phone numbers you use often, then the not so often numbers, and finally all your phone numbers. Add addresses, FAX numbers, alternate numbers, etc. Great time saver.

Looking for Answers in 'Routine' Jobs

Sometimes it is "funny" how a routine job can go bad, and have you scrambling to find an answer. And the answer you find often so stuns you; you wonder how you got by in the past. As I have told my kids, many times, you get smart by being ignorant (stupid) first. And, man, am I smart.

I have diagnosed, and replaced, bad glow plugs in a fair number of GM and Ford Diesels. With new glow plugs installed, systems checked, the vehicles go out, and stay out. Earlier this month I had a Ford 6.3 towed in for no start. This was a new vehicle to a new customer. Matter of fact, he was a first time Diesel owner, so he was full of questions.

Anyway, this was a no brainer (been there before, haven't we?) -- test the glow plugs first. They were all open, of course, so that is where I started. After a precautionary statement, to the customer, about flat rate versus real replacement time, I was pleasantly surprised to have all the glow plugs come out easily, and noticed they all looked fairly new. A minor glimmer of suspicion started, but the new customer had no history to relate and so I put those suspicions into back recesses of my mind. Big mistake (but then I have said that before, too).

After the new glow plugs were installed, I moved further along the testing procedure. Next I tested the time, several times, to ensure it was timing in and out as it was supposed to, checked all the other things I knew to go wrong, and released the truck to the customer.

Three days later, he can't get the truck started, and (to say the least) is a bit muffed. I went to his house (partially to placate him, partially to see for myself), and sure enough -- the glow plugs are all open. Mr. Customer swore the "wait to start" light did not come on while driving ("I would have noticed it, I am always changing my tunes"). Okay -- well, I can't warranty the glow plugs, but I will redo the plugs and check out the timer again for no charge. I also mention installing a switch to prevent unwanted glow plug operation. I installed the new glow plus that afternoon. Replacement this time had the swollen glow plugs I had expected on the initial replacement. There was excess current flowing, for too long, but extensive testing of the timer was inconclusive that afternoon. I left the switch installation for the next day. Since I had a career fair that day, I wasn't in first thing to prevent my guys from moving the truck in the morning. It was mentioned to me (later) the glow plug light had stayed on while the time the truck was being reparked. And, I had a burned up set of new, glow plugs. How could that happen between last night and this morning, with one start?

Here is where I got smart. I called a tech line and was given several, expensive, avenues to go down. But a tidbit said, almost in passing, was AC makes a 10 volt glow plug. What! Then I found out the original, specified, glow plugs are 6 volt! These are prone to burning out if the timer malfunctions at all (which is one reason for putting in the toggle switch). The 10 volt glow plugs will screw in, and have a spade connector, allowing them to be installed in place of the 6 volt plugs. In addition, these will fit in any 6.2 GMs you might have wandering around.

So, if you have any 6.3 Diesels in your customer base, keep the AC glow plus in mind. Oh, the part number? The 10 volt part number is 8G.

Diagnosing Water Pump Failures

Shades of Slant 6 water pumps. Ford Contours and the Mercury Mystique 2.5 engines have been experiencing water pump failures which are very hard to diagnose. The customer complaint will be for overheating, as indicated on the dash gauge. There may not be any coolant loss. All the components will test good. Pull the water pump, and you will likely find a broken water pump impeller - possibly restricting the water outlet with the pieces.

For those who are not old enough to have had the joys of diagnosing the old Slant 6 overheating complaints, they had water pumps which the impeller came uncrimped from the drive shaft, and would not pump water. They also had the neat trick of eroding away the impeller fins (caused by non-servicing factory antifreeze- and the use of water only).

Sometimes those engineering wonders don't work as well in the field as they do on the drawing boards. Mazda 3.0's are also experiencing water pump failures; they also have a plastic impeller chunking problem. So did the design guy go from Mazda to Ford, or from Ford to Mazda?

1995-1998 GM's with a 3.8 may develop a coolant leak at the intake manifold. There is an upgraded gasket available from GM to correct the problem: #12537197. Unfortunate part is the leak may be caused by the upper plenum failure.

Accords with low coolant will often go into a "loping" idle (actually more of a race, slow down, race, slow down). I have seen it on both carburetored as well as injected engines. If you have come in with a see-saw idle, wait for it to cool down, check coolant level first, may save quite a bit of diagnostic time. Now, you get to look for reason for the coolant loss.

My guys get caught on this all the time; after performing any work requiring a coolant refill, let the engine warm up to fan cycles, turn it off and let it cool down. Recheck the coolant level in the RADIATOR, top off and repeat. We have tried all kinds of ways to purge the air, but it still is best to check the coolant after a warm up/cool down cycle.

It also is wise to check DIRECTION of air flow through the radiator if the complaint is overheating. It does not happen very often (seldom enough you forget about it between times), but fans do get wired in backwards. Pushing the air is counter productive when trying to cool a radiator on the road. It may not show up in the shop because the air movement will cool the radiator enough during stationary testing.

I first encountered this problem on a Vega and its backwards turning fan. The body shop had installed a "normal" fan after an accident, and the car overheated ever after. I can't take credit for being super smart, I just noticed the hot air on my legs while I was pondering the beast. Recently, I was again the hero on a late model Honda overheating complaint, just because I finally noticed my legs were getting hot while checking it over.

Parts Cataloging

Parts cataloging may leave you hanging out to dry. All too often, with the myriad of options available on any car, you may be asked a question you have absolutely no way of knowing, nor does the counterman. How many times have you asked for such and such a part, and have a counterman ask, in return, "Does it have sports suspension, or luxury suspension? Does it have sports steering?" How did you answer? Since there is no magic sticker on the glove box door, or under hood, the best answer is to have a good relationship with a parts person from each major car line. Give them the VIN and let them tell you what option(s) the car originally came with, even if you don't use them for the parts.

With the increasing number of "national warranty programs," such as AutoCare, we may receive a customer who did not have the original repair done at our facility, and yet, we are going to have to warranty some complaint. If we simply reinstall an incorrect original installation, the new parts will not correct the complaint/problem. When in doubt, run the VIN and be the hero.

Out of Warranty

In the mid-1970s we "fixed" a number of out-of-warranty Ford electronic distributor problems by selling new distributors. These were the early days, and following Ford's diagnostic procedures, it led to the conclusion of a bad distributor. The final step in the procedure was to replace it. In reality, we "fixed" the problem when we unplugged the harness and installed the new unit, effectively wiping the corroded contacts during replacement. Many more electronic devices were similarly "fixed" in the ensuing years the same way, by unplugging the harnesses during replacement by wiping off the corrosion (although it would take awhile before we became wiser and started the unplugging process during diagnosis).

Anyway, 1990s' Caravans have had an awful lot of BCMs replaced following Chrysler's repair procedure for a "dash gauges not working" complaint. Once again, following accepted and written repair procedures will (or may) bring you to the decision to replace a printed circuit board and/or BCM. A call to IDENTIFIX to confirm what appeared to be an expensive repair for the customer, netted this hint. With the key ON, unplug the BCM. Turn the key OFF and reconnect the BCM. If the dash gauges now work, it is not a defective BCM or printed circuit board. However, warn the customer it may happen again. To help prevent this, however, Chrysler has new relays, part number 4728987 replacing PN4671001. The new relays have a spike suppresser built in to prevent point arcing.

The spike created by the older relays opening seems to be the problem, causing the BCM to lock up. There are up to eight relays in the fuse panel under the steering wheel. Replace them all. Don't throw the old relays away, however. They are the SAE standard type and will work in a variety of places and as test relays. Eight relays at $15 a whack is a whole lot cheaper than a printed circuit board and/or BCM

Radiator electrolysis is still with us and has become more of a problem than it ever was. The radiator is a big battery waiting to happen. It only needs a few ingredients allowing it to wreck havoc with the computer controlled system. If you are having weird drivability complaints with readings normal (or, other times, off the wall), drain the radiator for a look-see inside (if possible). White build up around the tubes towards the top radiator hose side will be a tip off. The white stuff is visible proof that electrolysis is taking place. It is a reaction between electrical flow and aluminum. The plastic tanks are acting as an insulator for the radiator assembly and helping to concentrate the "battery action."

Using the same method as with the copper/brass radiator-one end of the volt meter attached to the engine block, the other end dipped in the coolant solution. Avoid touching the radiator core (metal) with the volt meter probe. The old cast iron block/brass radiator point of no return was .3 volts. The aluminum radiator/mixed block limits are .15 volts. Start the engine and turn off all accessories/lights. If you are getting a voltage reading approaching or exceeding that magic voltage, start turning off the draws one by one until the voltage reading drops significantly. You have identified the circuit as a problem (usually a grounding problem), and the fact that the cooling system needs service. This method will work with those systems you cannot see into. It is just that you do not have the visible confirmation of electrolysis.

A Few Words about CTS

Counties which are not in emission containment areas are working at a disadvantage in that we don't get to sharpen and hone our drivability skills, mostly because we don't have the stick of having to make people pass emissions requirements. We seldom have to look into obscure problems, simply because we don't see them.

I am looking at CTS's more often lately. The CTS has quite a bit of authority in the PCM strategy, all the way from start up, warm up, cooling fan operation, fuel delivery, to transmission control. You would be surprised at the amount of discrepancy between observed engine temperature (Mr. Raytek pointed at the water outlet) and scan data. I have had the habit of replacing the CTS on Ford 5.0 and 5.8's after 60K as part of drivability diagnosis because I have seen an across the board creep from accuracy, but lately I have also been monitoring other makes, and guess what? They have CTS creep as well. It may well become part of our 60k service.

An example would be a Cadillac's CTS creep of +20 degrees. The PCM thought the engine was warmer than it was, and it caused everything from a cold stumble to the cooling fans coming on high when they shouldn't even be on low. A Toyota which never went into overdrive (complaint of lower fuel mileage) because the PCM never saw operating temperature reached.

Aliasing: What Does It Mean?

I had a strange pattern during lab scope usage. Problem started when I used the wrong time frame, reduced it and the pattern went berserk. "What the heck!"? To make a long research story short, it came down to what is termed "aliasing." Aliasing happens when a time setting interferes with the internal clock of the lab scope. In my particular situation, 20ms and 200ms will read the same, as does 50ms and 500ms and 100ms and 1000ms (or 1 second). I am told that the scope clock gets confused and uses a setting it considers correct. Not that anyone reading this would make a similar bonehead error; but just in case someone else does, you will become the resident expert and be able to correct that other guy's reading.

One of the things I have noticed scoping DIS systems is the apparent inability to now diagnose a lean/rich mixture problem from looking at the scope. The firing lines now slope up, or down, depending on whether the firing is positive or negative. OBDII is going to have to monitor the individual cylinders for lean misfires (unless the lean cylinder happens to be a negative side plug). Just be aware.

A 1995 Neon

We had a '95 Neon towed in for no start -- customer diagnosed it as a broken timing belt. We confirmed it was a timing belt, and looking in the parts manual we were informed this was a "free wheeling" engine. After installing a new timing belt and related accessories, it still wouldn't start. No compression. A fast check of the timing marks confirmed a correct belt installation, so on to the compression test. Three of the four cylinders were low. Pulling the head off confirmed an incestuous relationship between some valves and the pistons (they were kissing).

The machinist stated (as soon as he saw the head come in): "a Neon non-interference engine, huh." He says he sees a lot of Neon bent valves. This engine may rate right up there with the infamous 3.0 Nissan V6. Convince the customer to change the timing belt well before the recommended mileage.

ABS Warning Light

I have mentioned this before, but it bears mentioning again. Customer complaint of the ABS warning light on, or it may be intermittent ABS light complaint. In this particular case, the customer had already been to at least one other shop with the intermittent ABS light complaint with no problem found by that shop. There were no stored DTCs, and the light would not come on during normal testing. But it came on when I unexpectedly had to swerve and the red brake warning light came on also. The brake master was slightly low on fluid! If the brake fluid is low, and the brake warning light can come on during turns or hard stops, the computer sees the brake warning light as a foundation brake problem and disables the ABS. A disabled ABS turns the warning light on, with no codes. We have also seen a burned out bulb in GM's third brake light turn on the ABS warning light. It would be nice for a DTC for low fluid, but the computer doesn't know low fluid from low pressure, and it isn't an electrical problem, so check reservoir levels. We may have lost an "ABS problem" sale, but we did get a front brake job and other related sales as a result of diagnosing the low brake fluid level as the culprit.

Radiator Caps: How Do They Last?

You probably won't see this very often in your shop, but, again you may. Cars come in sporadically that are older than 1973 and I get to work on them. These particular cars were a 1940 Ford, 1949 DeSoto, and a 1950 Chevrolet. Anyway, I noticed on these cars they all had the wrong radiator cap on the radiator. These old systems were designed to run 5-7 lb. caps or maybe not even that. These cars all had 14 lb. caps on. This can wreck havoc with the cooling system's integrity. Now, if the radiator and heater core have been upgraded, the higher pressure cap may help eliminate the tendency to overheat, but check the core (freeze) plugs. If they are a true Welch plug (the flat kind with no lips) -- they were installed by whacking the center of the dished plug, thus flattening/expanding it into place. If that doesn't sound too secure, it wasn't. 1960 Buicks and Cadillacs used to blow these plugs all the time. Best bet -- stay with the recommended pressure cap.

The Sinking Brake Pedal

If you have a customer with a 1977, or earlier, Ford diesel truck complaining about a sinking brake pedal, and you are certain it is not caused by the brake master cylinder bypassing, it may be a normal condition. With the engine running, vehicle stopped, the vacuum pump may be pulling "excess" vacuum from the booster. The vacuum pumps on some earlier models continued to replenish booster vacuum, causing the sinking pedal condition. If this "normal" condition is unacceptable to your customer, Ford offers a replacement booster, PN # F5TZ-2005-CA.

This brake "problem" is old hat, but we still periodically run into the complaint. I first noticed this in the mid-1970s with Dodge pickups, and it has slowly progressed through all the pickup lines. The dreaded soft pedal!

Typically, what happens is right after a brake job, the customer "tests" the brakes by stepping (hard) on the brake pedal, with truck stopped. The pedal sinks, is spongy, or otherwise feels crummy. To really test whether you have a spongy pedal, dump the vacuum from the booster (engine off). Now step on the pedal: Is it hard, or spongy? Chances are it is rock hard, with no sign of falling through.

What I THINK is the explanation (I have asked numerous rake hot line techs this question, with no real affirmation, or denial, of the scenario), besides firewall flex, is the master cylinder construction. In late model tandem masters, the pedal operated primary piston, except through a spring, which in reality, it's not an operational spring. The spring's primary reason for existence is to simply keep the secondary piston in place. The secondary piston is operated by the hydraulic action of the primary piston. When the vehicle is moving, and brake operations are normal, the truck stops wonderfully (even with a bit of rear wheel lock up in a quick application), but the driver never notices any pedal problem. But stop the truck, apply the brakes, and pedal feels spongy. I believe what the customer is feeling is the spring action between primary and secondary piston, an action not typically felt during normal braking conditions. The trouble starts because many techs have never noticed this "problem" until the customer points it out. Then we go crazy trying to correct a problem that doesn't exist.

However, I have no explanation for the Suburban brake pedal feeling. I mean, those felt terrible when the vehicles were brand new.

Setting the DTC 332 on the Ford Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis

DTC 332 on a full-size (does anyone remember when we used to call them that?) Ford Crown Victoria and its mate, the Grand Marquis, 1994-1996, can be set by one of several items in the EGR system. The code is set by not enough EGR flow. Test the EVR by teeing vacuum, gauge in between the EGR and EVR, put the car in gear (feet planted firmly on the brake pedal in a stall test), and raise the RPM. The vacuum gauge should read more than 2" Hg -- typically, I see close to 5" Hg. Next, apply vacuum to the EGR valve, engine running, and you should see a stumble, RPM drop. Monitor the PFE voltage as EVR comes on. Does PFE voltage drop? No, well ...the PFE is still "seeing" backpressure. If these tests all fly, it HAS to be the PFE -- right? Not necessarily, as I found out. I condemned the PFE based upon the KOEO test, the fact the voltage didn't change enough during the stall test. You can guess where this going-up, DTC 332 KOER. Looking at the EGR schematic made me remove the throttle body for inspection, and consequent passage cleaning. There can be enough carbon blocking the EGR passage to keep back pressure high, even when it will allow the engine to stumble during the idle test. I still felt confident in condemning the PFE based upon the KOEO test, but the KOER test made me perform a second and third set of tests before I thought it through. This car was the first 4.6 I had encountered with a partially restricted EGR passage; normally they are a cut and dried plugged passage, bad hose, or PFE.

Dealing with Brake Calipers

The decision to rebuild, replace or reuse brake calipers has to come pretty early in the brake inspection process to effectively sell a good brake job. One pad worn much more than the other is one clue, but was it caused by a sticky caliper slide, or a sticky piston? One way to diagnose a sticky piston is to slightly push the piston back into the bore. This is not collapsing the piston, just a slight push using a pry bar with the caliper still mounted, or using pliers with the caliper removed from the knuckle. Because the "return spring" on a caliper is the square cut seal, it only has to move just a tiny amount. Squeeze the piston back into the bore, slightly, and release. If the piston "springs" back, chances are excellent it is reusable as is. If the piston does not return, then you either rebuild or replace the caliper.

I prefer the pliers method because: 1) it is easier to see the piston movement, and 2) there is less probability of cocking the piston and skewing the test. It also has the added advantage of being able to inspect the dust boot while the boot is extended. Inspection of the dust boot, especially those calipers using phenolic pistons, is important. As we know, phenolic may be a great heat dissipater, but it does not take kindly to water intrusion. (Remember those great Thermoquad float bowls?)

Always open the bleeder screw before collapsing the piston fully back into the calper bore. This does several things: 1) Although this generally is not a problem in Arizona, it does make certain the bleeder will actually move, and it ensures the bleeder is open. 2) It doesn't stir the sediment up in the reservoir and create the possibility of a master cylinder problem, especially those quick take up style masters, or in the ABS valving. 3) And it gets rid of the old brake fluid, making this a minor flush operation.

There are several methods of brake bleeding, some acceptable and some dubious. The unacceptable method is the ol' helper in the cab pushing the brake pedal down method. This really can lead to more troubles than it is worth. The method I prefer to use is gravity bleeding. Remove the master cylinder lid, remove the remaining fluid from the reservoir (if possible). I don't know what the engineering thought process was in those plastic reservoirs where a suction hose won't fit into either side of the division), and refill with your favorite flavor brake fluid. Leaving the lid off the master, open the bleeder and walk away. Go clean up your mess and put away your tools. When the fluid is dropping freely from the caliper, refill the reservoir, and open the other bleeder. After the final top off, I put the lid back on lightly, depress the pedal gently until it is firm, and recheck the fluid level.

The advantage of gravity bleeding is not disturbing any ABS valving or proportioning valves. It doesn't move the master cylinder pistons into unknown territory. You can clean up on customer time, and it doesn't (usually) make as much of a mess as the pressure bleeder.

1988-92 Dodge Vans

1988-92 Dodge vans with the 5.2 TBI (and I will assume Dodge trucks using the same TBI) have a fuel pressure regular mounted on the rear of the throttle body. There is the usual vacuum hose running from the throttle body to the regulator. When doing a fuel pressure/volume test, and you perform a quick check of the regulator by pulling the vacuum hose off the regulator to check for a pressure rise, there will be no increase in the fuel pressure. Do not assume the customer has a bad fuel pressure regulator, because if you do, you will get the same results, afterwards, when you go to test the newly installed pressure regulator. If you check the "vacuum" hose for supply, you also discovered there was no vacuum at the hose. Further checking by, perhaps blowing air into the port to see if it is plugged, will get you the sound of air exiting somewhere, so you know the port is open. Going one step further, the vacuum diagram under hood doesn't address the pressure regulator.

So what's the deal, McNeal? The pressure regulator on Dodge/Chrysler 5.2 TBI engines is NOT a vacuum regulated valve, although applying vacuum to the back of the regulator will cause a drop in fuel pressure. The hose is there simply to provide a path for any fuel, should the pressure regulator diaphragm develop a leak. Chrysler, wisely, decided any fuel leakage from the regulator could wind up pretty close to, or in, the distributor, so they engineered a drain back hose which mimics everyone else's vacuum hose.

No, I didn't replace the regulator, but I did perform all the other steps in the diagnosis and happened to find the answer in Identifix's pattern failure book while looking for another (the base) problem.

Spark Testers

It is not always a good idea to use the OTC (or whatever brand) HEI spark tester to check for spark on Chrysler products. Although the tester states it checks for 20Kv, it actually requires more than that to fire the tester. I have had several Chrysler products which will not fire the tester, or not fire it repeatedly, and yet show 20+Kv on the "scope on an open voltage test. Use the conventional spark test for non-CIS Chrysler products."

New Clutch Packs

This really isn't a tip, but a HEADS UP! You have, no doubt, seen the little disclaimer in very new clutch pack you purchase" "Note, this clutch may not appear the same as the unit you are removing, but it has been correctly engineered for this application and will perform fully to the original specifications for your vehicle." Well, "what if" happened recently. Since I haven't had problems using X brand clutches in the past, the immediate reaction was "what did we miss?" Careful questioning of the tech doing the work and verbally checking in complete repair revealed nothing. He cheerfully took the transmission/transfer case out, again, and we inspected the repair. Nothing wrong. Just in case, we warranted the parts, and put another assembly in. Same thing - not a complete release. A follow-up call to the manufacturer's "hot line" gave no satisfaction, just a muttered "we seem to have a lot of Jeep clutch problems." Huh? A Pattern Failure? No, not really, because they haven't tracked it - just a gut feeling.

The saga of numerous transmission removals began inspecting this and that - shimming here, trying that. We finally installed a different brand clutch, and the problem was fixed. Now the phone calls start, the blamed shifting, the dancing and shadow boxing begin. It is amazing how a parts rep can shift, duck, dodge, weasel, and waffle. Looking back, the only times I have been even remotely burned on a clutch replacement HAD been hydraulic slave Jeeps. The end problem was in the clutch cover; the slave could not operate the cover far enough to release the disc.

Now comes the issue: Pay up or we go to court. And if everyone would join the bandwagon on these obvious miscarriages of warranty, we would all benefit. It's bad enough you and I have to pay 25% labor because the manufacturer somehow shifts blame onto us for this bad part, but we shouldn't have to eat four clutch R&Rs before the "correctly engineered part" is replaced with a correct new correctly engineered part.

Now, I know the burning question is what brands were involved? Suffice to say, LUK was the hot line with the best answers, both in what measurements to make, and possible problem areas, and it became the replacement clutch assembly (with the best prices, including freight, no less).

P.S. - I was paid full ride!

New Clutch Packs

Fords are using a PFE (Pressure Feedback EGR), and the more advanced DPFE, on many of their engines since 1987. Common failure will cause the PCM to think the engine is under load, and will turn EGR on. Symptom will be a stall at idle. Fords with stalling problems, look at the PFE early in your diagnosis. We have seen fair number of melted units, often caused by restricted exhaust